In November last year, the high-end watch world lost legendary watchmaker and co-founder of the eponymous brand, Roger Dubuis. Roger Dubuis spent 14 years developing complications for, arguably the best fine timepiece brand in the world, Patek Philippe then went on to establish his own workshop in 1980.
The Roger Dubuis brand was founded in 1995 by Roger Dubuis and Carlos Dias and the Swiss watch manufacture carved out a niche focused on distinct design, high complications, and exquisite finishing. Many of the creations that come out of the Roger Dubuis ateliers are polarizing–they are “love ’em or hate ’em” pieces.
But that was part of the point; Roger Dubuis watches aren’t for everyone. Roger Dubuis watches are typically unapologetically brash and bold and always supported by mechanical mastery and attention to detail. If you’re unfamiliar with Roger Dubuis watches, here are some to sink your teeth into.
Roger Dubuis Sympathie
Before there was the modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur model, there was the Roger Dubuis Sympathie. In fact, the Sympathie, along with the Hommage, was the first collection released under the then-new Roger Dubuis brand.
This particular version, the Roger Dubuis Sympathie ref. S40 57 0 3.63/14, is an 18k white gold model with 38mm case–much smaller than what is typically found in the Roger Dubuis lineup. The silver time-only dial is also relatively simple compared to today’s Roger Dubuis design codes, featuring oversized and luminescent 3, 6, 9, and 12 numerals alongside faceted hour markers.
Flip the watch around and you’ll get a peek at the automatic movement working away within. Finished off with a black leather strap, this is one luxury dress watch with a difference.
Roger Dubuis Too Much
With a tongue-in-cheek name like Too Much, it’s obvious that Roger Dubuis the watchmaker and brand never took themselves too seriously. The aptly named Roger Dubuis Too Much (ref. T31 9847 5 56 37) has plenty going on.
First, there’s the large rectangular 43mm 18k rose gold case. Then there’s the black dial that houses three distinct indicators–the local hour hand pointing to Roman numerals, the GMT hour hand pointing to Arabic numerals, and a separate minute hand in the center. Lastly, there’s the exhibition caseback showing off the decorated manual-wound movement within.
Worn on the wrist via a black leather strap, this is one design that is instantly recognizable as a Roger Dubuis watch.
Roger Dubuis Follow Me
With the ladies’ Roger Dubuis Follow Me watch collection, we really see the brand’s adventurous design spirit. This is a watch that can never be accused of following another design, but as its name suggests, invites naysays to follow it!
At the heart of the tan double leather strap of the Roger Dubuis Follow Me ref. F17545 18k sits a cross-shaped case–mimicking the shape of the cross at the center of the Swiss flag–fashioned in 18k rose gold.
The four prongs of the case divides the dial into four quarters, one for the 3, 6, 9, and 12 poles respectively. Intriguingly, the four hours are displayed in both Arabic numeral and words. At the center of the unique dial are the blue center hands, powered by a quartz movement.
In between the pair of 18k rose gold tang buckles is another rose gold cross detail.
Roger Dubuis Golden Square
Simple yet bold. Suitable for everyday wear yet undeniably precious. The Golden Square is a perfect example of Roger Dubuis designs of the past.
Sporting a 37mm 18k white gold case, the Roger Dubuis Golden Square ref. DBGS0322 frames a mother-of-pearl dial with the familiar radial-style Roman numerals and blue center hands. The white gold caseback features a round window showing us the 24k rotor and other elements of the automatic movement powering the timepiece.
Paired with a classic black alligator strap, the Roger Dubuis Golden Square is an easy luxury watch to wear frequently.
Roger Dubuis Easy Diver
The Easy Diver is offers plenty of what we’ve come to expect from more modern Roger Dubuis watches. For instance, on the Roger Dubuis Easy Diver ref. SE48 02 5 K9.53 “Just for Friends”, there’s the massive 47mm case in 18k rose gold topped with the imposing bezel with the sharp numerals engraved into it. Following that, on the dial we see the flying tourbillon mechanism furnished with the brand’s signature Celtic style cross. Plus, there’s the webbing design on the black dial, arrow-tipped hour hand, and the luminescent tapered indexes.
Yet again, the back of the watch illustrates shows us the inner workings of the watch, this time with the manual Caliber RD 02 with 46 hours of power reserve and water resistance of 990 feet.
Attached to the Roger Dubuis Easy Diver case, by way of three lugs on each side, is a sporty black rubber strap. On the strap is an 18k rose gold deployant clasp.
If you’re looking for a luxury watch that’s proudly different than the rest, then we would suggest having a look at Roger Dubuis watches. Unique designs, solid mechanics, and incredible finishes are just a few of the details that this Genevan luxury watch manufacture offers.
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